London's star-studded new hangout for live jazz and cabaret

Emcee Jack Guinness is giving a boozy speech, pointing out all of his many friends, sisters of friends and children of friends in attendance at this week’s launch of the Parlour, the new jazz and cabaret bar at The Ned.

Cheering front and centre are West End star Beverley Knight and model Maddi Jean Waterhouse, sister to Suki. Iris Law is looking all grown up and Phoebe Dynevor of Bridgerton fame is wearing a sumptuous blue silk top worthy of her Regency character.

Rich upholstery glows dark in low lighting but our table is illuminated by a gigantic baked Alaska swimming in brandy flames - precisely one kilogram of meringue, ice cream and sponge cake alight. My compatriots and I share one thought over our champagne coupes as musicians Tom Misch and Reuben James riff: it feels like we’re somewhere else. A different time, a magical place.

The lowdown

East London hotel and private members club The Ned spent lockdown reimagining its downstairs dining room. It reopened transformed: a dark, glamorous jazz and cabaret bar with dining. It’s a fine spot for the toast of the town to gather.

Live entertainment from a roster of resident musicians including saxophonist and clarinettist Giacomo Smith and his five-piece band are accompanied by plenty of cocktails and lashings of food. The Parlour will open weekly from Wednesday to Saturday, from 6pm until late, while Thursday nights are exclusively reserved for Ned’s Club members and their guests.

The concept

Think sexy Jazz Age vibes: the Art Deco glamour bops you on the nose as soon as you click-clack over the threshold. From there, it’s all 1920s and 30s richesse, with a centrepiece sunburst design stage framed by plumes of feathers.

With huge speakers, a piano, drums and microphone stand, it’s band-ready and feels as if any of the guests (such as Beverley Knight or Griff, perhaps) might shimmy on up to play just because they fancy it. There's a sense of easy, relaxed glamour.

Jewel-toned velvet chairs accompany burl oak veneer tables and hand-painted high gloss walls are lit by Murano glass ceiling lights and Maison Jansen-style brass palm shaped lamps. The velvet chairs are low, and you’ll sink into them almost never to return, what with the music, booze and comfort food to follow.

The cocktails

We started the evening with champagne, but there are a number of cocktails to note. The ‘Gypsy Rose’ is a fresh new thing, mixing gin, champagne, hibiscus and citrus and ‘Flying Scotsman’ takes in Dewars 12 Whiskey, coffee and apricot liqueur. Of course, the Soho House classics are on order too (The Ned is part-owned by the company), including the legendary tequila-based Picante de la Casa with its chilli kick. Non-alcoholic concoctions include ‘Take It Easy’, mixing Aecorn aromatic, maraschino, citrus, and ginger ale.

We did not take it easy, and took our sampling job very seriously indeed. Delve into the wine list and you’ll find the stunning Puligny-Montrachet Burgundy and Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, Grand Cru Classe, France 00. Scotch as a digestive really suits the late night vibe (GlenDronach 15yo Revival or Macallan 18yo recommended).

Soak it up with

This is not the place to under-indulge and the servers will make sure of it - ours was only too happy to wax lyrical about his favourite dishes, which was most helpful given that Executive Chef Lee Kebble has put together a menu so moreish it’s mind bogglingly difficult to take your pick. Classic starters such as scallops, or beef, chicken and shiitake yakitori? Easy going burgers or a vast whole lobster for mains?

After rigorous debate we settled on ordering most of the yakitori options to share (the brochettes of wagyu beef were exquisitely smoky and delicate). Three of the four of us plumped for the BFG-sized chicken Kiev with truffle, on recommendation of the server. I was the odd one out and went for a zingy, pleasantly salty monkfish with samphire after debating the pros and cons of the 350g USDA Prime NY Strip with roasted bone marrow and red wine sauce.

What is undebatable is whether to order dessert. The baked Alaska is a must-eat masterpiece and a spectacle for everyone involved (the sheer size and decadence of it with the added show of blue flames is a winner). I bet four of you can’t finish it (we got through a measly quarter).

Best for

Date night. Whether it’s with a long-time lover or a new flame, the Parlour strikes the right balance between performance and indulgence.

27 Poultry, London EC2R 8AJ; thened.com

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