Save the spud: how Slow Food Birmingham is helping potato farmers from going under

The lockdown has been perilous for many British farmers and producers. Meat, fish, milk, cheese, beer, even asparagus – there has been plenty of discourse around these struggling industries, and rightly so. But there’s another area facing ruin that seems to be somewhat under the radar.

Though perhaps not as glamorous as the others, the humble potato – a healthy, affordable, versatile and delicious crop – is equally worthy of saving.

British potato farmers are extremely worried, with sales collapsing and produce potentially going to waste. Many supply supermarkets, where trade has remained stable. But others send their potatoes solely to restaurants, pubs and fish and chip shops. These farmers have seen sales almost entirely wiped out.

According to The Economist, the EU as a whole is set to lose €400m of potatoes. In April, a Belgian association of potato growers even exhorted Belgians to double their weekly intake of frites to help save a 750,000 tonne surplus of potatoes.

Andrew Crook, president of the National Federation of Fish Friers, explains that, by March 23, the body was advising its members to close. Chippies that remained open announced a huge dip in trade.

“I did receive a few calls from farmers that week who were angry as they had sheds full of potatoes and no one to sell them to,” says Crook. Factor in pubs, restaurants and school canteens among businesses, and that’s a huge amount of revenue to lose – and potentially, colossal food waste.

Potato farmers are used to hard times but, usually, it's down to the weather. Robin Cropper, a farmer in Lancashire who is on the National Farmers' Union potato forum, says the current crisis is the worst he's seen. His farm, which supplies fish and chip shops and restaurants, still had 2,000 tonnes of potatoes when lockdown hit; almost overnight, the customer base disappeared. Cropper says there's a there's a “strong possibility” that some farms could go out of business. “It is vital restaurants and takeaways come back soon.”

Kate Smith, chair of Slow Food Birmingham, knows full well how crucial potatoes in Britain are. “If you think of the amount of chips served as side dishes, I’d say 75 per cent of meals served in restaurants have a chip or potato product included,” Smith estimates. “They are incredibly versatile.”

Slow Food Birmingham is a local branch of the global Slow Food movement, founded in Italy in 1989 to promote local, traditional cooking and, increasingly, geared towards sustainability. The Birmingham chapter opened in 2018 and, pre-lockdown, focused on community projects like a food hub in the Jewellery Quarter, bringing produce from local farmers direct to consumers. Recently, they were lobbying the city for a sustainable Commonwealth games in 2022.

One member, Smith explains, is Sam Ewell, the co-director of Eat Make Play, a local community benefit society. He knew a farmer trying desperately to sell 10 tonnes of potatoes destined to go to waste. So they came up with a scheme – the Potato Project.

It is a simple call to action for residents of Birmingham and the West Midlands. A donation of £10 will buy 10kg of potatoes. The donor receives 2kg (unless they choose to give away the full 10kg), with the rest destined for those in need, either to private homes or to chefs cooking emergency meals.

One farmer joining the project is Allen Pane, whose 2,500-acre Worcestershire farm grows 7-8,000 tonnes of potatoes in a normal year. Much of it goes to the hospitality industry. “Fish and chips, mostly,” says Pane. “We were flying along merrily until the lockdown, but it has closed down completely. We have lots of potatoes left.” Pane estimates up to £350,000 worth could be lost.

There have been a few markets to divert produce to, such as farm shops, but the quantities sold are low. The Potato Project offers a lifeline, but Pane admits it’s still small fry. “It’s a worthwhile project, it helps a little bit, and helps the people of Birmingham.”

Slow Food Birmingham volunteers pick up the potatoes from the farms and bring them to a sorting hub, where social distancing measures are strictly followed. The team sorts them into ‘As’ (perfect-looking ones for emergency food bags) and ‘Bs’ (the grubbier ones, which are peeled and diverted to chefs for ready meals). So far, 900 people have supported the scheme. “We would love another 900 people,” says Smith. Peeling the spuds beforehand allows the group to monitor waste, sticking to its sustainability ethos.

One of the most important aspects of the Potato Project, for Smith, is that it links together producers, consumers and chefs. “There is a huge demand for carbohydrates for emergency food bags across the city. The campaign helps farmers retain their livelihoods, feeds people of the city and helps those struggling during this time of crisis.”

“We want to raise the profile of farmers because they are mostly invisible,” adds Ewell. “We want to raise the profile of local produce, because during an emergency – and beyond – everyone deserves access to fresh food. The hard truth is that there is enough of it for everyone, but a third of it is being thrown away. What we are calling the ‘potato pipeline’ is our way of keeping this produce out of bins and getting it onto tables.”

As one of the most versatile and affordable food staples, potatoes are an incredibly important aspect of our diets. They may have a reputation for being particularly tasty when doused in fat and lathered with salt, but they are nutritious and healthy, too.

“While many producers are struggling with supply chains at the moment,” says Smith, “helping to add potatoes into the Covid-19 food response makes sense as it’s such a versatile ingredient and easy for people to cook.”

To donate, visit slowfoodbirmingham.co.uk/campaigns