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A world of marmalade for 2019 Great British Bake-Off winner, David Atherton

2019 British Bake Off champion David Atherton judges the entries. Picture: Stuart Walker Photography 2022
2019 British Bake Off champion David Atherton judges the entries. Picture: Stuart Walker Photography 2022

SITTING at a table crowded with glass jars, the Great British Bake-Off star, David Atherton, selects one and holds it aloft, turning it slowly as it glows amber in the light.

Then, armed with a spoon, the 2019 champion pops the lid off the sterilised jar and with great concentration inhales the aroma before sampling the contents.

This is the judging room of the World’s Original Marmalade Awards, an annual event at Dalemain Mansion, near Penrith, and David, 39, is the guest judge at what has now become a household name worldwide.

"This place is so atmospheric. There's hundreds of jars of marmalade of all shapes and sizes in a grand room with a log burning fire, glowing lambs and tables. It's wonderful," says David.

"I love marmalade. As a child we had a massive garden with lots of soft fruits and made lots of different jams. Now I always make a batch of marmalade, but I give it away, because I find I like to try other peoples," he added.

After 17 years judging has been honed to a fine art.

This year organisers have received over 3,000 entries from preserve lovers around the world including Japan, Brazil, Canada, Switzerland and Taiwan to name a few. Most of the whole world is gripped with marmalade fever encouraged by this eccentric competition.

This year jars have arrived in all sorts of ways: hand delivered in baskets, by a range of couriers, at Marmalade Exchanges, on the Marmalade Motorway and the Marmalade Railway Express. The methods of transport are interesting and diverse as is the marmalade itself!

News and Star: Judge Will Torrent examines a jar of marmalade: Picture: Stuart Walker Photography 2022
News and Star: Judge Will Torrent examines a jar of marmalade: Picture: Stuart Walker Photography 2022

Judge Will Torrent examines a jar of marmalade: Picture: Stuart Walker Photography 2022

This year the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee has been commemorated by some entrants with labels and jars named after the long serving monarch. One jar arrived with their own crown; a marmalade fit for the Queen!

Across all the categories, entrants are experimenting with the peel shape. Organisers have seen star shapes, love hearts, bells, squirrels and fish.

"People might think marmalade is marmalade, but it is amazing how many different types there are. We have some with alcohol, although we are more likely to end up sugar-drunk," said David.

Each entry has a scorecard and is judged on its appearance, texture and flavour, with points available for lack of smudges on the jar, colour, brightness, peel distribution, jar filled to the top, balance of jelly to peel, set, size of peel, texture of peel, balance of flavours, balance of acidity, length of finish and 'overall harmony'.

"This is a first for me. Marmalade is a very British thing but we have entries from as far away as Japan, who have, I believe, over 200 citrus fruits. It has been good fun and after a while you have a tingly mouth from tasting," adds David.

Last year, nine-year old Flora Rider’s Seville Orange and Orange Blossom Marmalade was crowned the Best in Show, becoming the youngest ever winner.

"This year there has been a rise in the number of entrants in the Octogenarians & Upwards category, say organisers. "One lady has always made marmalade, when she unfortunately passed away at the beginning of the year, her friend ‘inherited’ her Seville oranges and entered the Marmalade Awards on her behalf. An important way that can keep memories alive."

News and Star: Jane Stuart-Smith examines an entry. Picture: Stuart Walker Photography 2022
News and Star: Jane Stuart-Smith examines an entry. Picture: Stuart Walker Photography 2022

Jane Stuart-Smith examines an entry. Picture: Stuart Walker Photography 2022

The winners will be announced at the Marmalade Festival on Saturday, May 14 at Dalemain, when winners can display their 'Gold, Silver or Bronze Awards on their jars.

.The marmalades can receive a commended, a bronze, a silver or a gold. Those which have scored top marks are then re-judged: there is a Best in Show awarded to the top homemade marmalade, and a “Double Gold” award given to a handful of the very best across the categories.

The winner of the best homemade marmalade is sold in the London department store, Fortnum & Mason.

In 2021, Rathbones sponsored the First Timers category, and this year are sponsoring a second category: ‘Rathbones Next Generation’.

Richard Dawson, the regional director at Kendal said: “We are delighted to continue our sponsorship of the World’s Original Marmalade Awards and Festival.

What started out for Rathbones as a way of supporting local business in Cumbria, brought together colleagues from Aberdeen to Exeter during lockdown, many of us making marmalade for the first time.

"We’re proud to put our name to a new category this year with Rathbones’ Next Generation marmalade. We hope the younger generation have as much fun in making marmalade as we did, particularly as the proceeds support such a good cause"

The full £10 entry fee goes directly to palliative care charities and so far the Marmalade Awards have raised over £270,000 for hospice care.